No ring, leash attached on the side by the bath pan, low to the ground, compact, and   short leash. Bigger bow perches with sliding rings necessitate much larger enclosures. This one is like a block perch. Even a large Red-tail can get by with an 8' x 8' square if one leg of this perch with the leash tied is centered in the enclosure;

This perch was inspired by my reading of Steve Martin's article, "Training Schemes for Achievable Dreams,"   found in one the 1997 Hawk Chalks. Here is an excerpt:   Excerpt from Training Schemes

If you took a standard 12" ring perch and pushed it in the ground until only the top half of the ring was showing, essentially you'd have this perch.  It is simpler to make and uses less material than either a ring perch or typical bow perch.  See the picture below.



   
This perch offers the following advantages.

1. Improved bath pan accessibility, since the leash is always tied on the bath pan side;
   
2. Only a short leash is required;
   
3. Relatively inexpensive;
   
4. Compact and light;
   
5. No sliding ring;
   
6. Adequate tail clearance;
7. Increases effective size of weathering area, since leash is tied at post at center of weathering enclosure. 
   
8. Very little perch to get tangled in the leash;
9. Low perching aids in field training;
   

It is excellent for Red-tails, Harris's, and Goshawks, and fine for any smaller hawk.  I recommend you make your own, but you can email me and I'll quote one for you. Paypal accepted (just notify me via email) or send a check to:

Chuck Redding
2122 Shadybriar Dr
Houston, TX 77077
Please email:    chuck.redding@gmail.com

If you make one, you'll need access to a welder; go to   www.McMaster.com  and order the part   3201T112.  About $39 plus shipping.  This is a U-bolt for a 10" pipe.  Weld a 3/4" round bar across the perch, the bottom of bar exactly 8 inches from the threaded ends. Also shown in the drawing is an option using a pair of 3/4" shaft collars with the leash loop locked between them. The lower (closer to ground collar) must be locked in permanently for safety. This option is all right if the falconer has no access to a welder.

Very important: Follow drawing exactly as the legs are just long enough.   Weld Drawing U perch

You may grind points, but do not shorten legs at all in process.  My welder charged $20 for three units,with his supplying cross bar.  Sand and paint the metal, if desired for appearance, and build up the perch surface.  If unpainted it does not hurt life or performance, but the aesthetics are lacking. See the picture at bottom of my original prototype, the next size up, unecessarily large.  It lacks the cross bar so I never put a leash on it. It will probably cost you less than a commercial perch.

If I make one for you, I'll quote but guess $70 each complete; $50 with no paint or perch surface, plus shipping (estimated additional $10 to $15). 

If you want to go really cheap, make a perch without the cross bar.  Buy the U bolt, add perch surface, and shove into ground. Do not tether a hawk on it. This works well in an enclosed area, but is NOT RECOMMENDED for open air weathering because of the small chance of the perch's being pulled out of the ground by the hawk.  She may take off trailing leash.  

Here is a picture of the hawk tethered to a block, next to the original prototype having no cross bar.  It is a U bolt for a 12" pipe, larger than what I buy now.  It is 14" across, and has a 7/8" cross section diameter.  I continue to use this perch, though I never tether to it (no cross bar).  Unpainted, it is covered in iron oxide (rust).